In the 1970’s, it was common to hear baseball announcer Bob Prince and fans alike scream “chicken on the hill” when Pirates legend Wille Stargell stepped up to bat. That is because if Stargell hit a home run, every patron in his Hill district chicken restaurant would receive free chicken! Boy, those were the days.
Although maybe not as famous as “chicken on the hill,” I did recently discover a neighborhood spot tucked away on a hill for homemade breakfast that is clearly a home run! Take the hair pin turn onto Goettmann Street at the top of Troy Hill and you will find a quaint historic neighborhood establishment that has been there since the 1950’s where scrumptious, hearty homemade breakfasts are still served! (Read on to learn more about their wonderful food offerings!)
A little history first. In the late 1800’s, Henry and Mary Brehm built a home overlooking the vast Pittsburgh skyline on what was then known as Return Street. This home remained in the Brehm family until 1920. In the 1950’s the building became a well-loved neighborhood bar where locals gathered, enjoyed an ice-cold Iron City, good food, and good company.
Many generations of locals knew this place as Janczak’s, Bummer’s, Orgal’s, Boulpen and, most recently, Tammy’s Place.
However, at the end of October 2023, Troy Hill residents Jeff and Melanie Fletcher became its newest owners and renamed this self-proclaimed “dive” bar as Brehm’s Return to honor its historical roots.
Although Jeff and Melanie surely seem like they have been Pittsburghers all their lives, they are somewhat new to the area. Originally from the state of Georgia, Jeff and Melanie had interesting journeys that landed them atop Troy Hill.
Jeff and Melanie were most recently living and working in Manhattan before finally settling in Pittsburgh. With a background in customer experience and data analysis and a couple of graduate degrees under his belt, Jeff worked as an educator for Teach for America at high-need schools and as a senior researcher for the Community College Research Center. In addition to her professional credentials including those of a Japanese translator, Melanie had the distinct experience as a Harry Winston fabricator. (Yes, “that” Harry Winston with the diamonds.) The most valuable piece of jewelry she worked on was worth $10 million! Wanting to make a switch to corporate life, Melanie chose Carnegie Mellon University to complete her MBA. Once in Pittsburgh, Jeff and Melanie found careers at Thermo Fisher Scientific before becoming “stewards” of Brehm’s Return.
But how in the world did they make it to the top of Troy Hill? It was Melanie’s hybrid CMU program that initially brought them from Manhattan to Pittsburgh for regular visits. After their first drive to Pittsburgh, they looked at each other and said, “This is home” and the search to find a specific neighborhood to call home began.
The search abruptly ended one day during their routine stop at Penn Brewery before heading back to Manhattan. Melanie questioned “who looks for a home on Craig’s list?!” Yet this step resulted in the Fletchers finding a home in 2017 on Troy Hill with an incredible view! Jeff and Melanie warmly describe Pittsburgh as “gritty, friendly, diverse” and a place that “feels like the South but more authentic where people love each other.” This description can also be applied to Brehm’s Return.
After completing their home renovations and well into their Pittsburgh careers, Jeff and Melanie decided to branch out and conduct another search — this time for a “dive” bar. Just a 1/2 mile from their home, they found their match, purchased and preserved Tammy’s Place with an over 70-year history, and saved it from becoming condos.
And preservation is what Jeff and Melane have strived to do as the new owners of Brehm’s Return. Still serving good old ice-cold Iron City (and other adult and local beverages), Brehm’s Return continues the tradition of being a community hub for friends and neighbors to gather, meet new friends, and “enjoy the simple pleasure of a great neighborhood hangout.” Most of the staff at Brehm’s Return live on Troy Hill and some had even worked for the former owner.
A colorful framed sign spelling out ‘‘Brehm’s” made from Tammy’s Place drink tokens hangs on a wall in the dining area underneath which sits a very long table. This unique table came from Jeff’s childhood home and was crafted with heart pine repurposed from an old schoolhouse. Even a vintage photograph of Henry and Mary Brehm adorn the dining area as do an eclectic assortment of vintage pendulum glass lights hanging from the ceiling, original 1970 paneling, and flocked wallpaper. Chess tables designed and created by Melanie are peppered throughout the dining area where chess players come together every Wednesday for “chess night.” Brehm’s Return is truly — as Jeff and Melanie describe on their web site — “proudly old school, unapologetically local, and always welcoming.”
As for the welcoming part I cannot say enough about the Fletchers’ hospitality! From our very first visit, my husband and I were genuinely made to feel like we had been going there for years. J eff and Melanie along with their super friendly staff welcomed us with their smiles and warm greetings, conversation to get to know one another, and their excellent customer service. Even the other patrons greeted us with their friendly hellos! (We’re not special, they treat EVERYONE this way!)
However, keeping tradition and honoring history does not mean you cannot make changes. Although there is the vintage cigarette machine (maintained by a third generation cigarette machine repairman), smoking is no longer permitted in Brehm’s Return. As the Fletchers explain, this action has made their place more inclusive and where families now can enjoy breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Enough about tradition, history, and decor… let’s talk food!
My good friend Lauren — who is a well-established Northsider — introduced me to Brehm’s Return and thought I would like their good casual food. I hesitated a bit thinking this would be the run of the mill “bar food.” To my delight, I found that the food was neither ordinary bar food nor good food — it was great food!
My first encounter was with their cheese steak wrap that rivals what you might order in Philly but tastier! The well-seasoned grill imparts a distinctive flavor to the flat steak, onions, and peppers blanketed by a combination of melted provolone and mozzarella cheeses. Topped with lettuce and tomatoes this wrap will satisfy the heartiest of appetites. It tickled my tastebuds to the point that I returned the week after and ordered the cheese steak again.
My husband loves (and makes the very best) grilled cheese sandwiches and is a bit of a grilled cheese snob. The way he likes his grilled cheese is with tomatoes grilled on the inside and a combination of gooey cheeses. For him, Brehm’s “Inside Out Grilled Cheese Sandwich” checks all the boxes. The combination of mozzarella, provolone, American, and Swiss cheeses nestled in with tomato slices and grilled to perfection is a real winner.
The sandwich which is a customer favorite is Brehm’s burger. It is slightly unpretentious and modeled after a burger from a restaurant Jeff and Melanie frequented in Athens, Georgia. Consisting of a beef patty served with American cheese, onions, pickles, and mustard, it is simply delicious. All sandwiches come with chips or for a very modest additional charge, you can have fries or a salad.
The real treat came when I found out Brehm’s Return also served breakfast! Pittsburgh diners watch out; this is THE new place for breakfast.
Akin to a homey diner during breakfast hours, Brehm’s offerings are homemade (yes from scratch), utterly delicious, and different. My personal favorite is a traditional Mexican dish that you will not find just anywhere. It is Chilaquiles — tortilla chips tossed in homemade salsa Roja and topped with Cotija cheese, pickled onion, and sour cream, two fried eggs, and served with a side of scratch-made refried beans. This dish is to die for.
And if you like to add a little extra spice to your food (like I do), Brehm’s has a crate full of assorted hot sauces to choose from. If you prefer a more classic breakfast of eggs, breakfast meats, toast, and real home fries; Brehm’s can hook you up. And if you crave something a little sweeter, try Melanie’s homemade ‘monkey bread’ — a cinnamon laden pull apart bread of utter joy for your tastebuds. For you late risers, Brehm’s serves breakfast until 2 p.m.
Although the Fletchers affectionately call their establishment a “dive bar,” that should not deter you from visiting! The dive bar atmosphere is intended to be “approachable, welcoming, inclusive and accessible” with no judgement, offering “options anyone can afford.” And Brehm’s Return is just that — a neighborhood spot which is friendly, open to all, and where you immediately feel right at home. So, the next time you are hungry and in the mood to try a different and friendly “dive bar,” take a quick drive up to Troy Hill and enjoy a mouthwatering and hearty breakfast on the hill at Brehm’s Return.
Brehm’s Return is open on Mondays from 3 p.m. to midnight and Tuesdays through Sundays, 9 a.m. to midnight. It is located at 1354 Goettmann St. in scenic Troy Hill. For more information, visit brehmsreturn.com/
